Monday, April 30, 2012

More fitting solutions

The tight armhole is a hard one.  The sleeve is a shaped two piece construction, so the typical diamond shaped gusset won't work.  (See Threads,

 I took some inspiration from an old Swedish military jacket I got thrift shopping.

The armholes have ovaloid gussets that fit between the sleeve and armhole. The gussets are also in a cotton twill for breathability.  I really liked this feature for cold-weather biking, too.

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Some fitting solutions

OK, I tried a few solutions.  First, a slash and spread insert for my shoulders.

Here's the initial slash.  I let it go a little longer down my back.

I cut an insert that's basically a big triangle, more photos TK.  If you can imagine the shaping like and upside down skirt godet.  I'll probably true the line when I cut out the final fabric.

Wednesday, April 04, 2012

coat fitting.

I may not have posted, but I've been working on the first project still.  I gave myself a fitting, but had to wrangle my spouse to take some photos.

The front looked quite loose and comfortable, in spite of the wrinkles.

This has the potential to be a relaxed, smock-like overcoat, until ....

You can see the lines on the back that it's waaaay too tight on the shoulders.  Evidently, upper class women living 100 years ago didn't lift weights, do yoga, or gardening that would bulk up their shoulders.

The underarm is equally tight.  Even with sizing up the side seam, I have trouble moving my arm.  I can't imagine a kimono-sleeved shirtwaist under this sleeve...

Next Post:  some of my fitting solutions.