More fitting solutions

The tight armhole is a hard one.  The sleeve is a shaped two piece construction, so the typical diamond shaped gusset won't work.  (See Threads, http://www.taunton.com/threads/pdf/tootightgarment.pdf).

 I took some inspiration from an old Swedish military jacket I got thrift shopping.

The armholes have ovaloid gussets that fit between the sleeve and armhole. The gussets are also in a cotton twill for breathability.  I really liked this feature for cold-weather biking, too.

Some fitting solutions

OK, I tried a few solutions.  First, a slash and spread insert for my shoulders.

Here's the initial slash.  I let it go a little longer down my back.

I cut an insert that's basically a big triangle, more photos TK.  If you can imagine the shaping like and upside down skirt godet.  I'll probably true the line when I cut out the final fabric.

coat fitting.

I may not have posted, but I've been working on the first project still.  I gave myself a fitting, but had to wrangle my spouse to take some photos.

The front looked quite loose and comfortable, in spite of the wrinkles.

This has the potential to be a relaxed, smock-like overcoat, until ....

You can see the lines on the back that it's waaaay too tight on the shoulders.  Evidently, upper class women living 100 years ago didn't lift weights, do yoga, or gardening that would bulk up their shoulders.

The underarm is equally tight.  Even with sizing up the side seam, I have trouble moving my arm.  I can't imagine a kimono-sleeved shirtwaist under this sleeve...




Next Post:  some of my fitting solutions.

Starting Cutting

I finally had a good block of time to start cutting the pattern.

The first project that was sent by the Vintage Pattern Lending Library was a basic duster coat.  Very simple silhouette, but with some period specific trim.  I finally have an excuse to do some proper tailoring.

Just a closeup of a basic scaling method - I'm only one size larger than the sample pattern, so I'm trying to get a basic fit by adding one seam width to the sides.   The period seam allowances are 3/8".

How I'm estimating a 3/8" seam allowance;  my metric Pfaff has the 1.5 cm line marked.










More basting photos to come, as well as my first fitting.  

Blog revival

The whole reason I started trying this mobile version of blogging was that I signed up for a new project. The Vintage Pattern Lending Library ( www.vpll.org) has crowdsourced pattern testing a line of patterns from the magazine La Mode Illustree from 1912. This is in conjunction with the 100th anniversary of the failed voyage of the Titanic as well. So, being a masochist, I signed up.

Just trying out the mobile version of Google's Blogger app. Sometimes, even with downtime at work, it's hard to get any writing done. More later.

Cute little piglet I saw in the park yesterday. Just to test the photo upload.